Thursday, February 26, 2009
Cat Behavior Training
CatTricks
Source: Yahoo
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
Cost of buying a cat
During estimation of cost of buying a cat, one should plan and work out systematically. You should aware that the cost of buying a cat will be followed immediately by other costs including the procurement of infrastructure for the building of a cattery or cat dwelling place in the house, with a proper hiding space, purchase of feeding and watering bowls, transport boxes, drug cost, vaccine cost, feed cost, and labor cost related with cleaning of cattery.Even veterinary consultation fee also being taken into consideration. In general, Pedigree cats are costly.
Cost of buying a cat may be minimized if reliable and reasonable members of cat clubs or cat associations are approached before the actual purchase of the cat species. However, one has to thoroughly enquire on the currently prevailing cost of your preferred cat species before going for it.
Some times, the cost of a cat species may be sky-high price, if the concerned cat species is projected in an advertisement program or in some movies itself. There are occasions that due to this propagation, the cost may even be unbearable for normal persons to go for such specific breeds.
Cost of buying a cat may be reduced if orphaned kittens are received from animal welfare group or organizations that normally collect lesser money for such kittens.
Similarly, if you cannot accurately assess the critical factors related to the cost of buying a cat, one may end up in spending up of more money to affect the purchase of cats for the house. Financial assistance is extended by insurance companies to meet out expenditure made towards purchase of drugs, operation charge etc and however, these variations are encountered in insurance facilities and this depends on the concerned rules of the firm.
Related Resources
Things to Think Before Buying a Cat
Such activities will help in reducing the problems that are expected to happen to anybody who want to have cats newly to their houses. Of course, the technical messages that can be gained during the search for these criteria may be of definite help in the future management of their cats in a more successful manner when compared to the men who never venture like this but straight away want to go for the cat rearing.
However to reduce the cost factor, one has to consult other cat breeders The concept of male vs. female also has to be considered before you get a cat either from a well-reputed cat breeder or from a cat owner.
Requirements in Kitten house
The features that are related with rearing of female cats like requirement of a separate den in a cat house, need of specialized feeding arrangements like provision of calcium to lactating cats etc. are to be considered, before you get a cat.
Before you get a cat, the health care measures related with children have to be paid additional emphasis because of the fact that some zoonotic diseases that are capable of affecting children who get closely associated with caring of house cat may affect the children. Consider the liking of children on the appearance of coat in the cat species before the purchase of a cat.
Hence, health based precautions need to be adapted, before you get a cat into the house with children and many of the children may not take adequate preventive steps required during cat rearing, in reality. If you maintain cautions, then happiness can be anticipated due to the owning of a cat among children of the house.
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Veterinary Help
Hesitations should not be present before you get a cat in consulting a veterinary doctor with regard to the selection of cat species, steps required with maintenance of skin and information on diseases in cats. Keep the house equipped with all required basic facilities, associated with purchasing of a new cat like feeding bowl, watering bowl, towels, transport carrier or box for shifting of cat in any warranting situations like during the incidence of some illness or during visit of any guest's house in evening etc. So before you get a cat, be satisfied with all cat related information.
Related Resources
Cat Toilet Training- Have You ever tried?

There as been a long and heated debate on whether or not to toilet training your cat. Both sides have fielded arguments for and againts it. But as cleaning litter boxes become more and more of a chore, an increasing number of cat-owners have decided to look into cat toilet training, hoping to forever be freed from tedious raking of stinky sands. If you're one of them, you've come to the right place to look into Cat Toilet Training.
Now, many authors have written books on the subject (WHOLE BOOKS ON HOW TO TEACH A CAT TO POOP IN A BOWL!). We'll ignore all that for the moment and focus on a series of steps that are simple, applicable, and would show results in less than one month.
This method works by gradually allowing your cat to shift from litter boxes to toilet bowls. Remember, however, that the personality and disposition of each individual cat means that the process may take longer or shorter than is expected.
The amount of time you're willing to invest in doin it also determines how well the cat adjusts to the new scenario.
The Method
Before we begin the cat toilet training, you will need to gather a few items essential to the task : The litter box your cat is presently using, a stool of about the same height as your toilet bowl and a bowl that would fit into the toilet.
First, move the litter box into the washroom, placing it right next to the toilet. Your cat should be allowed a few days to adjust to the boxes new location.
Next, we need to train the cat to jump to the height of the toilet seat. We do this by placing the litter box on the stool, place adjacent to the toilet bowl.
Make sure to leave the lid down for the first few days so that your cat may walk on top of it. After that, you may lift it up. Your cat would need to get used to manouvering around the toilet seat.
After your cat is comfortable with the toilet bowl, you may replace the litter box with a litter-filled bowl, placed directly inside the toilet. This will take some time for the cat to get used to. Make sure your cat is comfortable placing his or her paws on the toilet seat instead of inside the bowl. We wouldn't want somebody to take a swim now do we?
Finally, you may remove the bowl completely. As long as there aren't any other litter boxes in your house, your cat should stick to the toilet bowl as the preferred location to do his or her business. Now if only we can train them to flush... That's all- You've completed- cat toilet training.
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Cat Furniture - Perfect For Letting Your New Companion Feel Right At Home
You decided that it's time to bring a new family member into your home and that family member is a new cat. Before you do anything, make sure that your house is ready for him or her and cat furniture is a great way to do just that.
Cat furniture will have your furry friend feeling welcomed and what's great about it is the fact that there are many selections to choose from, making it easy for him or her to feel right at home. One of those selections is a cat house, this will give your cat his or her very own place to go and feel safe. Usually, one will sit about two to three feet off the ground and will have a cylindrical design. It will be made from a combination of wood that is then covered in a durable fabric, usually carpeting. What makes it such a great spot for your kitty to take it easy is that it will have circle like openings to inside compartments where it can go inside.
A cat house is not the only cat furniture option that you should have in place for your pet. Another thing that your new companion will need is a place to run, jump, and play. You might think that your furniture is an okay option for that, well, you're wrong because your cat will tear your furniture apart. So, make sure he or she has a playing spot in place and there are a couple of different options that are great for that. The first is a cat tree. It has the look of a real tree and is made from that same wood and durable material option just like a cat house. It has juxtaposing limbs where your cat can jump around and play. Or, if you want something a little more elaborate, you can go with a kitty gym. It basically is just like a cat tree, but has way more features including perches where your cat can sleep, built in hanging toys, and additional ramps and towers for climbing.
Along with those just mentioned, there are also other cat furniture options that are great for your cat to play on. One of those is a scratching post, which is perfect for a smaller space. You can also get single cat towers and pet stairs, ideal for older cats that have a hard time getting around.
A convenient way to check out and purchase the cat furniture for your cat is by going online and doing your shopping on the World Wide Web. Just by a few clicks or your mouse you can take in all the selections and what's great is that what you find will be at some pretty reasonable prices.
Ultimately, if you are bring any new pet into your home, whether it's a dog or cat, you need to have things in place to make it feel at home and if it's a cat that you got, then cat furniture is a must have purchase.
Author Jennifer Akre is an owner of different niche online stores that offer customers not only products, but information relating to furnishing and decorating indoor and outdoor living spaces. Whether you want to redecorate your living room or create the ultimate outdoor environment perfect for entertaining, there is a lot of helpful advice to take advantage of to make it happen. Today, she shares her insight on how to treat your pet to a lovely space by purchasing durable cat furniture, comfortable cat houses, and sturdy cat trees. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jennifer_Akre
Check out our top downloadable cat secrets information.
Cat Litter Box Training
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
Adult Cat Training
Cat Clicker Training

Cat clicker training is one method of cat training which can be very helpful when trying to teach your new pet anything. Clicker training works by using a clicker, a small wooden box that makes a clicking sound, to train the cat. When the cat is performing the desired action, the clicker is clicked, and afterwards a treat is given. Unlike just giving a treat, clicker training has the animal associate the clicker with the treat given afterwards. This is called operant conditioning, and it will continue to work as long as the clicker is clicked and then the treat is given after the act. The cat will associate the click sound as the reward, not the treat. Clicker training has been used to train almost every species of animal, even whales and rats.Cat clicker training only requires three things, unlike many other training methods. The first thing you will need is a clicker, which can be found at any pet supply store, and a lot of other stores, in their pet department, as well. The second thing needed is a cat, which you either already have or will be getting shortly, obviously. The last thing you need to clicker train your cat is treats, and lots of them. Small tidbits are best, so that your cat only gets a little treat, because clicker training requires these very frequently. If the treats are large your cat may overeat during training. Clicker training uses positive reinforcement so that your cat learns quickly what is expected, and wants to comply to receive the reward, which is the click sound.Cat clicker training is very effective, and this method is used by animal experts and professionals everywhere to train their own animals. This training is also commonly used with dogs, horses, and many other types of animal. All pet owners want a well behaved pet, and clicker training will do this in a way that is positive and helps, rather than hinders, you to build a strong and trusting relationship with your cat that benefits you both. After all, this is what owning a pet is all about, and clicker training can help achieve this.
Cat Adjuster Training
Cat Leash Training
Sunday, February 22, 2009
Cat House Training
Cat house training is an important part of owning a cat. If you acquire a cat and do not do any house training, in no time your house will smell like cat urine and feces, which is not pleasant. It is important that this training occurs as soon as possible after you get your pet. House training does not have to be difficult, if you know a few tips. As soon as you bring your new pet home, make sure that you show them where you expect them to go to the bathroom. Gently pick them up and put them in the designated area if you are using a litter box or other inside device. A cat door is another option for the cat's bathroom needs, and this option is very convenient and offers other benefits as well. One of these is the elimination of the need to empty a full litter box. Instead the cat goes outside through the door.Cat house training should only be done using methods that involve positive reinforcement. It is never acceptable to use any method which causes fear or pain to your pet. The only lesson that this accomplishes is to teach your cat that you are to be feared and are unpredictable. This can greatly damage the bond that develops between the two of you. It is also very important to never punish or discipline for any accidents. These may occur, especially at the beginning of training. Treats and rewards should be used for deeds done well and mistakes should be ignored. It is crucial that if an accident occurs, it is thoroughly cleaned and the smell completely eliminated. If not your pet may think that this is the designated spot for this, and may use this area even more frequently.Cat house training involves a few accidents at first, and these should always be blotted with paper towels if it is urine. Next scrub the area with dish soap and water, then blot dry with more paper towels. If the smell still lingers, put a couple of drops of pure vanilla extract on the spot, and this should mask any remaining scent. It is important to cover the smell of urine, because some cats may spray their own urine to mark their territory if they smell it.
Cat Litter Training
Cat Potty Training

Cat potty training is an important part of helping your cat learn where to use the bathroom, and where not to. Cats are very smart animals, and it usually does not take long for them to catch on that they are expected to use a certain spot or area for these needs. Simply placing your cat in the designated bathroom area for a few times when they seem to need it, and lots of praise and treats when they go. This is the most effective method to use for any type of training with your cat. Potty training for your cat should not be stressful or scary. Do not ever try to force your cat to stay in a litter box, as this will cause emotional issues with the cat using it. The cat will avoid the litter box if this is done, and potty training for your cat could be set back.Cat potty training should be started as soon as possible after you bring the cat home. Give your cat the freedom to explore their new home, but at the first sign of an urge to go, you should gently pick up your cat and put them in their potty place. Potty training your cat can also be done with your cat going outside to the bathroom. If this is true in your case, a cat or doggy door can be invaluable for freedom of movement for your cat to use the bathroom. Being able to get out to use the bathroom as needed will help your cat learn quickly and eliminate any accidents. Effective potty training for your cat can keep your home looking and smelling great. Make sure the litter box stays clean, if one is used, or your cat might refuse to use it.Cat potty training is normally very simple and straight forward, and help is rarely needed. If there are problems that persist you should consult your veterinarian, because the cat could have a medical problem, like a bladder or kidney infection, that needs treatment before the accidents will stop. Any medical problems will delay potty training for your cat, and this should not be pushed while under treatment because the cat may not have the ability to control themselves.
Saturday, February 21, 2009
Cat Door Training
Cat Toilet Training
Cat Training Tips
Cat Food Recipes Cookbook
New! Download all these Cat Food Recipes FREE in the Cat Food Recipes Cookbook!
You also may display any of these Cat Food Recipes on your website, but you will need to include the author information at the bottom of each recipe or else you will be violating our usage and federal copyright laws. Enjoy all the free cat food recipes!
Beef & Veggie Broth
Better Than Grass Salad
Canadian Cat Relish
Cat Cheese Please
Cat Cookies
Cat Crackers
Cat Crunchies
Cat Jelly
Cat Wraps
Chicken & Pasta Stew
Chicken & Sardines
Chicken Cheeseburgers
Chicken Stir Fry
Chicken Soup
Cookies For Cats
Crispy Trout Dinner
Fabulous Fishballs
Feline Feast
Feline Hash
Feline Weight Loss
Fish Pudding
Food For Finicky Felines
Kitty Birthday Treats
Kitty Pudding
Ham It Up Cat Treats
Healthy Cat Meal
Home Cooked Kitty Meal
Infant Kitten Formula
Kedgeree
Kipper Supreme
Kitten Delights
Kitten Milk
Kitties Favorite Treats
Kitty Biscuits
Kitty Breakfast
Kitty Catnip Cookies
Kitty Cookies
Kitty Heaven
Kitty Kisses
Kitty Roll Ups
Kitty Tacos
Liver Cookies
Mackerel Cat Munchies
Mackerel Magic
Meaty Oats
Meowsli
Mini Cat Cakes
Mouseburger Bites
Natural Crunchy Cat Treats
No Fui Tofui
Potatoes Au Feline
Salmon Mouse Mousse
Sardine Heaven
Sardine Soup
Sauteed Liver
Sassy Cat's Special Dinner
Sassy Cat's Tuna Pops
Super Salmon Pate
Treats For Older Cats
Tuna Patties
Tuna Pops
Tuna Treats
Tutti Frutti
You Gotta Have Sole
Your Kitties Kibbles
Commercial Cat Food
Veterinarian Recommended All Natural Cat Food
Dry cat food is generally made by extrusion cooking under high heat and pressure. It may can be sprayed with fat to increase palatability and other ingredients to complete its composition. Cat owners often prefer dry cat food due to the convenience and price. Besides usually being significantly cheaper, dried cat food can also be left out for the cat to eat at will over the course of several days; whereas, canned or raw cat food spoils or becomes unappetizing after several hours. Dry cat food is recommended by some based on the idea that cats break apart dry foods with their teeth, which causes the food to scrape off dental calculus (like brushing their teeth).Cat owners and veterinarians who recommend a diet consisting largely or entirely of canned, homemade or raw cat food point to higher water content of such food and the increased total water consumption in comparison to a dry food diet as an important health benefit. Wet cat food also generally contains significantly less grain and other carbohydrate material, although many are made with fish ingredients. Canned cat foods in pop-top containers may play a role in the development of hyperthyroidism in cats. In general, canned, homemade, or raw cat foods are thought to either help treat or noticeably reduce the likelihood of numerous health issues including urinary tract disorders, diabetes, chronic renal failure, constipation, and obesity.
Our Cats

"A cat's eyes are windows enabling us to see into another world." - Irish Legend
Our cats are special and we are committed to providing our soulful friends with natural foods made with the freshest ingredients, effective nutritional solutions and supplements, treats with a healthy purpose and luxurious pet care products created to beautify and pamper your feline.
Life’s Abundance Premium Health Food For Cats
Life’s Abundance foods are veterinarian-formulated with select ingredients help your cat achieve optimum health. We use a “fast-cook” process at low temperatures to help preserve the nutritional value of each and every wholesome ingredient. And we maintain strict inventory controls to ensure the quality and safety of our foods.
Life’s Abundance foods are made with the finest ingredients, including …
A proprietary blend of vitamins and minerals
High-quality protein from chicken and catfish meals for strong muscles
An antioxidant system including vitamins A, C and E.
Omega-3 fatty acids for healthy skin and a shiny coat.
Calcium and phosphorus for healthy teeth and strong bones
Dietary fiber to help maintain a healthy digestive tract.
Since we use only wholesome ingredient, this formula contains …
No artificial flavors
No artificial colors
No corn or corn gluten
No wheat or wheat gluten
Life’s Abundance delivers concentrated nutrition in every bowl.
A balanced blend of calcium and phosphorous to support growing and aging bones.
Optimal protein levels for growing kittens and adults.
Unique blend of antioxidants that support cats throughout their life cycle.
Choose Life’s Abundance for your cat because a recipe for a better life is more than meeting minimum requirements.
buy link: http://www.healthypetnet.com/HealthyPetNet/Catalog/ProductDetail.aspx?realname=40010204&cat=0&hdr=&Ath=False&ProductID=405006(Pet_Base)
Cat Food Recall
What Cat Foods Have Been Recalled?
Which Cat Foods Are Safe?
What Is The FDA (U.S. Food and Drug Administration) Doing About It?
Cat Food Recall News & Updates
How To Report A Complaint If Your Cat Gets Sick
Download the Cat Food Recall
With all the scary news about contaminated cat food and pets dying - why take a chance? Now you can have all the facts right on your own computer. This should eliminate a lot of your worries about your cat's safety.
Screenshot of the Cat Food Recall:

Download the Cat Food Recall
Friday, February 20, 2009
Products For Flea Control
The following are some guidelines for cat owners to follow when choosing and applying a flea control product:
Never use insecticides on very young kittens, pregnant queens, debilitated, or elderly cats without consulting your veterinarian. With such cats, you may want to consider avoiding the use of some insecticides directly on your pet. Instead, you could comb the fleas off the cat with a flea comb then submerge the fleas in a small container of soapy water. This would also be a good alternative for cats who love being groomed but who violently refuse baths or the application of a spray.
Before using ANY product on your cat, read the label instructions completely. If you do not completely understand the instructions, you should contact the manufacturer or your veterinarian for clarification. Observe the species and age requirements listed on the label. NEVER use a product labeled "for use on dogs only" on your cats. Cats react very differently than dogs to some insecticides. Some dog products can be deadly to cats, even in tiny amounts.
Use caution when using products that contain organophosphates in your house or on your cat. Cats are more sensitive to organophosphate insecticides than most other animals. Currently, there are few flea products in the United States labeled for use on cats that contain organophosphates as an active ingredient. The few that can be used on cats contain a small concentration of organophosphate. However, many household sprays and products that are specifically labeled "for use on dogs only" are widely available. Again, avoid these dog products! In some cases, exposed cats can start showing signs within hours. Symptoms would include drooling, depression, labored breathing, weakness, and convulsions. Without prompt and proper treatment, many exposures could lead to the animal's death. With appropriate treatment by a veterinarian, the survival chances are much higher.
NEVER use flea control products that contain "permethrin" on your cats, unless they are specifically labeled for use on cats. There are some products that are labeled for use on cats that contain small concentrations of permethrin, usually less than 0.1%. When used according to the label instructions, these can be used safely in cats. However, there are many permethrin products available over the counter for use on "dogs only." These contain high concentrations (45-60% ) of permethrin insecticide. These permethrin products have a good range of safety when used on dogs, but, even a few drops of concentrated permethrin could be lethal to cats. The reason for this species difference is yet unknown. Exposed cats can develop uncontrollable seizures within hours of concentrated permethrin application. Some may tremor for several days. The fatality rate of untreated cats exposed to such products is very high. Proper treatment by a veterinarian can often prevent death.
Always use caution when using shampoos, sprays, topical spot-ons, or mousse near your cat's eyes, ears, and genitalia. Inactive ingredients can cause irritation to these sensitive tissues. When using a fogger or a home premise spray, make sure to remove all cats from the house for the time period specified on the container. Food and water bowls should be removed from the area also. Allow time for the product to dry completely before returning your cats to your home. Open windows or use fans to "air out" the household before returning your cats to the treated area. Strong fumes can be irritating to your cat's eyes and upper respiratory system. If you are uncertain about the usage of any household product, contact the product's manufacturer or your veterinarian to explain the directions BEFORE use of the product.
Insect growth regulators like lufenuron, methoprene, and pyriproxyfen can be used in combination or alone with flea control products. They can help break the flea life cycle by inhibiting flea maturation. Growth regulators have minimal adverse effects and can improve the efficacy when used in combination with adult flea insecticides.
Just because a product is labeled to be a "natural" product does not mean that the product is completely safe. Many such "natural" products can be harmful when used inappropriately on cats. For example, d-limonene and linalool are citrus extracts that are used as flea control agents. Though they are natural products, they still can have serious side effects if used on sensitive cats or if used improperly.
Observe your cat closely after using flea products. If your cat exhibits unusual behavior, or becomes depressed, weak, or uncoordinated you should seek veterinary advice.
Once again, read the label. This could save the life of your cat!
Source: http://www.i-love-cats.com/Health/flea.htm
Toxoplasmosis & Pregnancy
"Doctors used to say the woman should get rid of the cat, but that's totally unnecessary," says Dr. Michael Davidson, associate professor of companion animal and special species medicine at North Carolina State University College of Veterinary Medicine. The only way a woman can get toxoplasmosis from a cat is through direct contact with its feces, which most people try to avoid anyway! A few simple precautions are all that's needed to prevent exposure to this parasite during pregnancy.
Some 80 percent of domestic cats are exposed to toxoplasmosis during their lives, usually as a result of eating a mouse, mole, squirrel or other infected prey. Some cats show no symptoms; others get diarrhea or become listless. Occasionally, pneumonia or eye inflammation occurs. Indoor cats in rodent-free homes may never be exposed.
As many as 60 percent of humans also become exposed, usually after handling cat feces either in a litter box or garden, says Dr. Davidson. Chances are, most cat owners who have lived with felines for any length of time have already been exposed to toxoplasmosis. Like cats, people generally show no symptoms or appear to have only a mild "flu." Although a person shows no symptoms, he or she still produces an antibody, thus building up immunity.
"If you have been exposed to toxoplasmosis and produced an antibody, you're pretty well protected," says Dr. John Botti, director of maternal-fetal medicine at Penn State University College of Medicine. If a woman is exposed to the parasite for the first time during pregnancy, though, the effects that it will have on her and the baby depend on how far along she is in the pregnancy. During the first three months, it is unlikely that a woman will pass the parasite on to her developing fetus. If toxoplasmosis is transmitted to the baby during this time, however, the chances are greatest that the baby will develop a major health problem. Conversely, a woman in her third trimester of pregnancy is most likely to pass on toxoplasmosis to her baby, but the parasite is least likely to cause serious birth defects.
Statistics show that of the 4 million babies born in the United States each year, only 1,200 suffer any effects from toxoplasmosis. Most of these babies have only mild problems, such as a rash or an eye infection. Nonetheless, the parasite can cause grave damage to a growing fetus. In rare instances, babies have developed hydrocephalus (a condition in which the brain swells), mental retardation and anemia.
To eliminate the risk of exposure to toxoplasmosis, pregnant cat owners should avoid handling the litter box by having someone else perform the task, or simply wear gloves when cleaning it, and washing hands thoroughly afterwards. This also applies to gardening, especially if outdoor cats frequent the area. "Just use common sense," Dr. Davidson advises. As an added precaution, he recommends that the litter box be changed daily because, once the organism is shed, it takes at least 24 hours for it to become transmissible to humans. Interestingly, cats can only shed the organism in their feces one time during their lives - just after they have been exposed for the first time. And, Dr. Davidson says, "It's unlikely they'll shed it during a woman's pregnancy."
A simple blood test can determine if a person has ever been exposed to toxoplasmosis. Unfortunately, it cannot specify when exposure occurred, so it's a good idea for a woman to be tested before becoming pregnant. If she has been exposed she will know for sure it was prior to her pregnancy.
Toxoplasmosis should be taken seriously, but it's no reason for pregnant women to get rid or even avoid their cats. During pregnancy, a woman has days when she feels apprehensive about the future or stressed about her weight gain or fearful of the impending delivery. The perfect remedy - and one that is completely safe - may be to curl up on the sofa with a feline friend.
Cat Rabies
Most animals can be infected by the virus and can transmit the disease to man. Infected bats, raccoons, foxes, skunks, dogs or cats provide the greatest risk to humans. Rabies may also spread through exposure to infected domestic farm animals, groundhogs , weasels and other wild carnivores. Squirrels, rodents and rabbits are seldom infected.
How To Prevent Rabies
Have your pets vaccinated against rabies. Any pets which come in contact with wild animals are at risk. Many local health departments conduct public vaccination clinics for dogs and cats. Your veterinarian can also vaccinate your pet against rabies. During recent years, confirmed cases of rabies in cats have exceeded the reported cases in dogs in some parts of the United States making vaccination and booster shots critical to your health and that of your pets.
If your cat or dog has been bitten or attacked by a wild animal or has bites or scratches of unknown origin, call your local health department or animal control officer to report the incident.
If your cat or dog has bitten a person, call your local health department or animal control officer to report the incident.
If your cat or dog is sick, seek the advice of your veterinarian.
Protect your pets from stray or wild animals. Keep your pets from running loose.
Report stray animals to your local health department so an animal control officer can investigate. Handling stray cats or dogs can be dangerous.
Do not feed or handle wild animals especially those that appear aggressive or sick. Never keep a wild animal as a pet.
A wild animal such as a bat, raccoon, fox, skunk, or groundhog which has bitten a person or domestic animal should be sacrificed immediately. Its head (or in the cat of a bat, the entire bat) should be submitted to your state or county testing laboratory for examination. Rabies prophylaxis vaccinations may depend on your physician along with laboratory results.
What To Do If Bitten
If you are bitten....
....by a wild animals: an animal control officer should sacrifice the animal. All biting wild animals should be tested for rabies as soon as possible.
....By a cat or dog: obtain information about the pet animal. Include a description of the animal and licensing number or identification, owner's name, address and telephone number and the rabies vaccination status whenever available.
Immediately cleanse the wound thoroughly with soapy water.
Get medical attention. Go to your family doctor or nearest emergency room. DO NOT DELAY CALLING. YOU MAY NEED TREATMENT.
Report all bites to your local health department or animal control agency.
Self Defense Against Rabies
Discourage wildlife. Minimize your chance of exposing humans and pets to rabies. There is a human rabies vaccine available for pre-exposure and a globulin treatment with vaccination for post-exposure prophylaxis. However, prevention is of major importance. Start by reducing human and pet contact with wild animals.
If wild animals visit your property frequently, they are probably looking for food and shelter.
Protect Your Home
Check your house and property. Eliminate sites that can be used by animals for sleeping or raising young.
Cap all chimneys
Plug all holes in roofs, eaves, or sides of buildings
Block any means of entry to foundations, porches and steps.
Trim tree limbs that extend to or over your roof.
Provide bright exterior lighting to discourage nocturnal animals.
Encourage your neighbors to do the same, so the whole neighborhood is unfriendly to wildlife.
The Effects Of Food
Examine your buildings and yard. Remove all sources of FOOD.
Use garbage cans with animal-proof lids.
Keep garbage cans in the garage or shed.
Don't feed pets outside.
If you must feed pets outside, remove any uneaten food at once.
Remember gardens attract wildlife such as raccoons. Consider ways to make your garden less appealing such as low voltage electric fence.
In Your Home
What to do if THEY are already in residence?
If they're already raising young, it's best to wait for the young to leave the den.
When you're sure that there are no young or that the young ones are gone, watch the entrance at dusk and block it up after the animals leave for the night.
If you can't watch the hole, mount a flap of wood or heavy gauge wire on a hinge over the hole so that the animal can push it out to leave, but can't push it back in to re-enter.
Arrange a bright light so it shines into the den during the day, or place a loud playing radio there all day to discourage an animal from sleeping.
If the animal persists in remaining, call your local animal control officer.
Report any stray domestic or wild animals behaving strangely to your local animal control officer.
Get to the Vet Campaign Launched

Nine out of 10 veterinarians expressed concerns about pet health if preventive care declines, according to a new report from Bayer Animal Health.
A national veterinary voucher campaign — Help Your Pet, Get to the Vet — has begun. The mission of the online initiative by Advantage Topical Solution, from Bayer Animal Health, which started Monday during the Western Veterinary Conference in Las Vegas, is to distribute more than $250,000 in veterinary vouchers to help offset costs for pet owners.From now through Feb. 28, the campaign will give up to 13,000 pet owners the chance to receive a $20 rebate toward preventive veterinary care, including vaccinations, wellness exams, flea and tick treatment and prevention, heartworm preventatives and dental care.Vouchers are available online on a first-come basis from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. EST every hour on the hour with up to 1,000 vouchers distributed each day. More than 80 vouchers will be distributed every hour.“During these challenging economic times, we want to help consumers defray the cost of preventive care for their pets,” said Joerg Ohle, president and general manager of Bayer Animal Health of Shawnee, Kan. “At Bayer Animal Health, everything we do is to help protect, cure and care for pets. That mission is at the core of this new campaign.”According to Bayer's “The State of Preventive Veterinary Care Report,” a compilation of third-party and original research of pet owners and veterinarians, as many as 98 percent of veterinarians believe that preventive care is one of the best ways to forgo added medical costs and treatments in the long run for pet owners.The report also found that nine out of 10 veterinarians expressed concern about the future health of pets if veterinary visits and preventive care decline, with almost half of them expressing deep concerns.
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Which Is Better - Indoor Cats Or Outdoor Cats
Why? Simply because the cat is a realist and does things because there is a reason for doing them. Most animals do things because their master commands or forces them to do so. But not so with the cat. How wonderful this world world be if we human beings did things because they were necessary, and not for show or effect upon individuals less discerning than we.
One big advantage of a pet cat over a dog is the fact that cats naturally use their litter tray and therefore there is no need to turn them out. In fact, if you really love your cat and value him, you will never let him out of doors unless he is with you in a carrier. Unattended, the odds are that your cat will be run over, poisoned, shot or stolen. There is also a danger of your pet picking up a disease, such as rabies, thus endangering the lives of your family. Fleas, ear mites, fungus skin disease, and intestinal parasites may be contracted from other cats and animals. By fighting with other cats, he may develop abscesses due to bites. When your cat is kept indoors, no one can complain about him. In order to avoid in any way creating a dislike for our pets, we must not let them disturb other people, nor allow them to roam on their premises. A cat which has never been outdoors will have no desire to go out.
People should realize that needless litters are of more harm than imagined and see to it that their pets are neutered or spayed. To prevent the birth of thousands of homeless cats which will not be cared for, humane societies and shelters should not be allowed to give out for adoption unspayed females and unneutered male cats. This rule should apply to all people who allow their cats to breed and then give the kittens away to homes where they may soon be abandoned.
The fascinating hobby of keeping a cattery for the purpose of improving purebred cats is also being attacked by stringent city laws. Catteries consist of one or more breeds of purebred cats. They are kept in the homes of people who are especially interested and willing to devote much time and considerable effort to the hobby of breeding better cats and who avoid the breeding of a surplus of unwanted and neglected cats. Through the national organizations with which they are affiliated, [cat shows] are held annually in various cities. This is done in order to create a better understanding of the various breeds of cats and to develop a greater appreciation of this lovable creature.
Let us all do our part by keeping our pet cat at home! Keep him in clean quarters, properly fed, and above all , loved. A clean litter pan and fresh water should always be supplied and changed daily. Each cat at birth is one of God's creatures and deserves to be kept clean, in pleasant surroundings, well fed and loved. No animals should be treated as a "thing" by letting children mishandle him as if he were a toy.
Source: http://www.i-love-cats.com/Health/indoors.htm
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus - FIV
FIV belongs to the same family of viruses as HIV (human immunodeficiency virus) and immunodeficiency viruses in other species. This family of viruses (Lentiviruses) are known for being species-specific, for life-long infection, and for slowly progressive diseases. FIV is not transmissible from cats to people, and HIV is not transmissible to from people to cats.
FIV is known to be present in the blood, saliva and cerebrospinal fluid of infected cats. However, the virus is extremely fragile and does not survive outside the cat’s body. Therefore, the main method of transmission of FIV from one cat to another is through a bite wound during a cat fight. The virus is only rarely spread through casual cat-to-cat contact. However, female cats infected with FIV during their pregnancy can pass the virus to their unborn kittens.
Male cats are twice as likely as female cats to be infected with FIV. This reflects the greater tendency of male cats (especially those not neutered) to roam and fight with other cats. Outdoor, free-roaming cats are more likely to contract FIV than indoor cats. The virus is least common where cats are kept indoors or in rural areas where the cat population density is low. In Japan, for example, where there are a large number of free-roaming cats, the virus is three times more common than in the U.S.A. The average age of infected cats is 3 to 5 years old.
When a cat becomes infected with FIV, there may be no clinical signs for many years. However, we know that 4 to 6 weeks after infection the white blood cell count declines and some cats will have swollen lymph nodes. Also, some cats have a fever, anemia, or diarrhea at this early stage. FIV is toxic to a type of white blood cell, the T helper cell, that is critical to a healthy immune system. This virus slowly depresses the function of the cat’s immune system, leading to chronic health problems and opportunistic infections. Many FIV-positive cats have chronic inflammatory conditions of the teeth and mouth. Other chronic problems, such as diarrhea, pneumonia, skin disease, sinus infections and some eye diseases as well as neurological problems have been seen in FIV-positive cats.
FIV is diagnosed by using a blood test which detects antibodies against the virus in the bloodstream of the cat. Veterinarians may test a cat for FIV if there are unexplained chronic symptoms of disease in a major body system. As well, the American Association of Feline Practitioners recommends testing cats being introduced into a household to prevent exposing any existing cats to the virus. Kittens under 6 months of age may carry antibodies to FIV acquired from their mother without having the virus itself. Therefore, any kitten under this age who tests positive should be retested when over 6 months old.
FIV-positive cats may live for many months or years. With good health care aimed at recognizing and treating FIV-associated problems early, these patients can enjoy good quality of life. All efforts should be taken to preserve their health by protecting them against other diseases and injury. This is best accomplished by requiring FIV-positive cats to live indoors; this also helps to prevent spread of the disease. There currently is no vaccine available against FIV, but research is actively being conducted toward this goal.
Tips For A Poison Free Home For Cats
When cleaning your house, never allow your cat access to the area where cleaning agents are used or stored. Cleaning agents have a variety of properties; from those that could just irritate the gastrointestinal tract to those that have a corrosive action and can chemically burn the sensitive mucous membranes of the mouth, esophagus, and stomach.
When using rat or mouse baits, ant or roach traps, or snail and slug baits, place the products in areas that are inaccessible to your cats. Most baits contain sweet smelling inert ingredients, which can be very attractive to your cat.
Never give your cat any medications unless under the directions of veterinarian. Many medications that are used safely in humans can be deadly when used inappropriately. One extra strength acetominophen tablet (500mg) can kill a 7 pound cat.
Keep all prescription and over the counter drugs out of reach of your cats. Pain killers, cold medicines, anti-cancer drugs, antidepressants, and diet pills are common examples of human medication that could be potentially lethal even in small dosages. Only one half of a 200mg naproxen tablet could cause stomach ulcers in cats.
Never leave chocolates unattended. Approximately one half ounce of baking chocolate per pound body weight or less can cause clinical signs of toxicity.
Many common household items have been shown to be lethal in certain species, including felines. Miscellaneous items that are highly toxic even in low quantities include pennies (high concentration of zinc), mothballs (contain naphthalene or paradichlorobenzene - one or two balls can be life threatening in most species), potpourri oils, fabric softener sheets, automatic dish detergents (contain cationic detergents which could cause corrosive lesions), batteries (contain acids or alkali which can also cause corrosive lesions), homemade play dough (contains high quantity of salt), winter heat source agents like hand or foot warmers (contain high levels of iron), cigarettes, coffee grounds, and alcoholic drinks.
All automotive products such as oil, gasoline, and antifreeze should be stored in areas away from cat access. As little as one teaspoon of antifreeze (ethylene glycol) can be deadly in a 7lb cat.
Before buying or using flea products on your cat or in your household, contact your veterinarian to discuss what types of flea products she/he would recommend for your pet. Read ALL information before using a product on your cat or in your home. Always follow label instructions. When a product is labeled "for use in dogs only" this means that the product should NEVER be applied to cats. When using a fogger or a house spray, make sure to remove all cats from the area for the time period specified on the container.
When treating your lawn or garden with fertilizers, herbicides, or insecticides, always keep your cats away from the area until the area dries completely. Discuss usage of products with the manufacturer of the products to be used. Always store such products in an area that will ensure no cat exposure.
Cats - Toxic & Non-Toxic Plants
Plants add the needed finishing touches to any decor. But, if you have a feline, that beautiful plant could become a deadly enemy.
Listed here are plants poisonous to cats that must be avoided if there are cats in your home. Note that lilies(*), in particular, are dangerous to cats. While in some cases, just parts of a plant (bark, leaves, seeds, berries, roots, tubers, spouts, green shells) might be poisonous, this list rules out the whole plant. If you must have any of them, keep them safely out of reach.
Should your feline friend eat part of a poisonous plant, rush the cat to your veterinarian as soon as possible. If you can, take the plant with you for ease of identification.
Source & read more: http://www.i-love-cats.com/Health/plants.htm
Cat Neutering & Cat Spaying
A spay (ovariohysterectomy) is the surgical removal of the uterus and ovaries from the abdomen of an animal.
What is the purpose of spaying?
The spay is the only foolproof method of birth control for female cats, and it is a permanent method.
Will spaying eliminate heat cycles?
Spayed animal no longer goes through heat cycles. Female cats normally come into heat several times a year. Spaying ends several problems associated with the heat cycle, including spraying urine and the necessity of confining females to prevent the approaches of persistent males. Spaying also prevents such irritations as a howling cat in heat.
Are there other good reasons for spaying?
The risk of mammary cancer is reduced if a cat is spayed before its first heat. Also spayed pets cannot develop pyometra, a serious uterine infection. Finally, difficult pregnancy and delivery in older cats or ill cats is prevented.
Do cats gain weight after spaying?
Your cat will not gain weight, if you provide a balanced diet and encourage regular exercise.
Should cats have at least one litter before being spayed?
No. Your cat does not need to have a litter of kittens to mature.
What is Neutering?
Neutering (castration) is the surgical removal of the testicles from the scrotum of an animal.
What is the purpose of neutering?
Neutering is the primary method of sterilizing male cats.
What are other benefits of neutering?
Neutering an immature cat usually prevents development of mating behavior and the obnoxious habit of spraying urine to mark territory around the house and yard.
An unneutered cat cannot control its mating instincts. Given freedom to wander, such an animal may become hurt or lost, and is almost certain to be responsible for unwanted litters. Humane societies cannot place all unwanted animals; millions must be put to sleep. Countless others are abandoned.
See your veterinarian!
Discuss your questions about breeding and birth control with your veterinarian.
Litterbox Problems For Cats
Act Fast. A cat litterbox problem that continues for a long time can become harder and harder to solve. cat litterbox mistakes can lead to territorial responses, and disturb the routines and hierarchies of your entire household. Will Muffin still want to take her daily afternoon snooze on the couch if Tiger urinated there? She may find some other area, displacing more and more of your cats, and creating fighting and other dominance displays. If you put off solving the problem, hoping it will go away on its own, you may find it multiplying in your home.
Find the Culprit. Before you even try to determine the "why," figure out the "who." If you catch it early enough, you can hopefully nail it down to one cat. Many people like to isolate each cat to determine which cat is causing the problem, but displacing one cat, even overnight, can sometimes lead to dominance displays in the others, as they claim undefended territory. If you have new cats, or kittens reaching adulthood, you may want to visit the vet for help. Your veterinarian can prescribe fluorescein for your cats, helping you to determine which urine stain(s) glow under an ultraviolet light.
Rule out a Veterinary Problem. Veterinary causes underlie many cat litterbox problems, particularly in household with older cats or those with access to the outdoors. Urinary tract infections are one of many common causes, where the cat develops an aversion to the box as a painful place to be. Other health problems can also cause cat litterbox mistakes. Worse, without visiting the veterinarian, your other cats may be at risk, which could cause the problem to multiply. No behavior techniques in the world will help a cat with a veterinary problem, so don't skip the trip to the vet.
Observe the Behavior. If the vet rules out a health problem, I next recommend a brief observation period. It's always very frustrating to the owner to let the cat continue his cat litterbox mistakes, but it gives you the knowledge to attack the specific problem. During the observation period, try to concentrate on the things in the environment that may be important to your cat, like cat litterboxes, food bowls, favorite places, the routines of the other cats and people in the home, etc. Start a journal where you record as much information as you can about every cat litterbox mistake, then look for links. Does the cat always use the same room? Is it always on carpeting? Does it happen after meals, or at some other time of day? Are the other cats nearby? Did you have guests over? When you isolate the specific stimuli involved, it allows you greater control without making major changes in the environment that may upset the rest of the cats.
Break the Habit. Elimination sites are matters of preference, and when the cat gets into the routine of going to a certain location, you'll need to prevent the behavior from recurring. Since the smell of declining urine is a signal for the cat to "reapply," clean the accident site with a pet odor remover - perhaps multiple times to get past the cat's sensitive nose. Block off the area while the product does its work. Remote deterrents, that work whether you are around or not, will keep the cat from returning to the area whenever you aren't standing guard. Double-sided tape or an upside-down plastic carpet runner, pointy feet up, can keep your cat from standing in the same area. Cats also hate to be startled, so anything that can safely surprise the cat when he visits that area can help make the area less "cat-friendly."
Make the Current cat litterbox More Appealing. While you are preventing bad habits, make good habits more appealing. The cat litterbox should be clean, have privacy, and in multi-cat homes, escapability is also important. This simply means that the cat can see off a distance, so he won't be ambushed in the box, or on his way there. Most cats prefer clumping, non-perfumed litter, but work with your individual cat to determine whether a box of a different size, shape, or litter would help.
Retrain? If it doesn't seem to help to address the individual factors in your journal, or your cat has never regularly used the cat litterbox, you may want to retrain the cat by himself. Use this as a last resort, since removing the cat from the hierarchy may upset the routines of all the cats in the home. Keep the cat in a small, uncarpeted room, with a clean cat litterbox, food bowl, and toys in opposite corners. Pick up all rugs from the floor, so the only soft place to choose to eliminate will be the cat litterbox. Visit the cat often, and clean the box regularly. I also recommend recording the times that the cat uses the box. Many cats stick to a regular routine, so once you've determined when the cat is likely to use the box, you can let the cat out during low-risk times to maintain the hierarchy, and put him back in the room with the cat litterbox during high risk periods. Repetition of successful use will increase the cat's preference to the box.
General Stress Reduction. In some situations, it's difficult to determine specific environmental triggers for a problem behavior. However, sometimes general stress reduction techniques will prove helpful, particularly in multi-cat homes. For cat litterbox problems that have arisen from territorial disputes, additional resources may reduce competition for resources. Extra cat litterboxes and food bowls are always helpful, but remember that YOU are also an important resource, so give each cat as much attention as they could possibly want. Exercise can also help redirect cats energies. It can also help desensitize cats to each other, while they are praised for attacking a toy while the other cat watches. Routines are also very important in multi-cat homes, particularly when older cats are involved. Scheduled feeding, petting and exercise periods at the same time and location every day can further reduce stress that may be contributing to the cat litterbox problem.
Cat litterbox problems in multi-cat homes can be difficult. However, caring responsible owners can have an advantage solving the problem with they use quick, decisive actions and apply solid behavioral techniques.
Declawing Cats
The most common surgical procedure, onychectomy, or "declawing", is amputation of the claw and the end toe bone joint. The surgery has a reputation for causing pain for a week or more and the possibility of postoperative complications, such as infection, hemorrhage, nail regrowth and altered feeling in the toes for some time after surgery. There is disagreement as to whether declawing leads to behavioral problems in cats. There is concern for the welfare of cats who can not defend themselves or climb to safety if they are able to go outside. A declawed cat will still scratch but without damage to furnishings.
An alternative surgical procedure, deep digital flexor tendonectomy, was first described by John Rife, DVM (Journal AAHA, Nov.1986). This surgery involves severing the tendon attached to the end toe digit but maintaining the claw in the sheath. It is not possible to detect the surgery visually but the cat is no longer able to extend the claws. The technique limits the cat's ability to damage surfaces when scratching as long as the claws are kept trimmed. It is less painful (cats recover within 2 days) and it has minimal postoperative risks. However, ongoing claw trimming is a must or the cat can use its claws again to some degree and there is a risk of ingrowth into the paw pads. Some veterinarians have reported joint fusion and arthritis problems. The technique has not been favored by most veterinarians mainly because of the above negative factors and the potential of the client's dissatisfaction and ultimate desire for declawing.
Behavioral aspects:
Animal behaviorists currently believe that the main function of scratching for the cat is communication. It is natural, instinctual behavior. Scratching involves not only leaving a visual mark but it is an attention getting, happiness display. Ideally the cat should be encouraged in this behavior; however, because of damage to furnishings, most cat owners reach a compromise with the cat by claw clipping and redirecting to other acceptable surfaces or using the relatively new claw guards, and most cats are adaptable enough to accept this arrangement. In addition cats raised by pedigreed cat breeders can be deterred even further by early kitten handling. (My own experience indicates that scratching becomes an ingrained habit which initially surfaces at the time a 4 or 5 week old kitten becomes aware of the magic of its claws when he pulls himself over the kitten box. This is when all cat habits, like use of the litter box, start to develop.) Breeders can greatly minimize the scratching habit, and associated problems, by not allowing access to attractive home furnishing surfaces (i.e. fabrics, carpet) and by only making acceptable scratching surfaces available, such as cardboard or rope posts, until the kitten reaches the age of 8 to 10 weeks. Cattery raised kittens can have good scratching habits ingrained during this early period.
The majority of American veterinarians perform declawing surgery, either routinely suggesting it to clients or as a last resort for cats that would face euthanasia. Many cat owners who have their cats declawed because of a perceived cat damage "problem" have not even tried any other solution first. The veterinary scientific literature supports the claims that there are no differences in undesirable behaviors of cats before and after declawing. However, my reading of the studies, executed in the 80's, which are the basis of this belief, reveals that the investigators themselves admit that there may have been special circumstances involved and that the numbers of cats were too few for significant results. From one article it was stated that an "owner is more likely to undertake the expense of having a scratching cat declawed when that cat has many desirable traits". (Effects of declawing on feline behavior; Bennett, et al; Companion Animal Practice, Dec. 1988.)
There is no question that most humane shelters have taken a strong stand against declawing and there are numerous anecdotal reports of behavior problems in declawed cats. In some countries, such as Great Britain, declawing (except for medical reasons) is not permitted. Tuffs University School of Veterinary Medicine advocates thoroughly exploring noninvasive options and only if a client considers getting rid of the cat performing surgical removal The AVMA policy is as follows: "The declawing of the domestic cat is justifiable when the cat can not be trained to refrain from using its claws destructively. (1994)"
Source: http://www.i-love-cats.com/Health/declaw.htm